"Out there, beyond the muggy heat, the filth, the social climbing and the financial tyranny of the city, I felt certain there was an accient heart. There were surely age old places, rites and rhythms that beat to a different pulse. We might have buried it all deep in a mire of lager, Blockbuster Videos and themed pubs, but that there was an English folklore as vibrant and colourful as those of Ireland, Scotland and Wales, I was convinced. It was only a question of squelching through the landfil, amoung the used KFC wet-wipes, and grasping hold. This, then, would be my grail quest."

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