'Taking off in a ten-seater aircraft is like being catapulted into the sky, but Mustique is waiting for me at the end of our journey, which makes any discomfort bearable. The artificial lights of St Lucia fade as we head south, miles of ocean rippling below us. I don't know why a chill travels across my shoulders when the island drifts into sight: it's still so thick with trees and undergrowth it looks like an emerald, resting on a skein of dark blue velvet.

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