I found this fair-condition softcover on the charity-sale shelves at a local Hannaford's, and decided to pick it up. It's a mix of travelogue and biography-of-things - specifically, Panama hats... which (a) do not come from Panama - most of them came from Ecuador, though the trade is changing, and (b) are masterpieces of the art of weaving plant-fibers into intricate patterns, a skill that has been added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage lists.

The book includes detailed - and often hilarious - descriptions of the author's travels while on the trail of the authentic hats, those who make them, and the many stops they take along the way. There are dark aspects to this: as with many commodities, the people who do the most work early on tend to receive a mere pittance for it, while the finished products might command hundreds of dollars apiece. And changes in fashion, and competition from lesser-quality but also less-expensive hats, plus the temptations of more lucrative work for the weavers, are tending to make the entire industry shrink... But I found the book fascinating in many respects, and I have a new respect for whoever first conceived of the amazingly-fine weave that creates the best-quality hats. Such hats can be folded into a tiny shape for transport, are lightweight and breathable for comfort in the heat, and can shed water as well - not bad for all-natural hand-crafted articles.

The travel portion of the book includes comments on the frequency of the "bus plunge" on the precipitous roads, a handy checklist if you ever plan to ride a bus in these locales (I... never plan to, certainly not after reading this!), living conditions in the many small towns along the way, the personalities of some of the notable vendors, marketers, innkeepers, and workers - and much more.

There's history, too, both early and more recent - with political upheavals and economic ones both having serious impacts on local lives. And there were some tidbits that surprised me; I knew that yellow fever was endemic and cost the lives of many, including foreign diplomats, but I had NOT known that famed political-cartoonist Thomas Nast, appointed consul in Ecuador by Teddy Roosevelt after Nast ran into serious financial difficulties, died there of yellow fever after only a few months...

The book touches on the fates of the indigenous peoples, contrasting their current state with the historic remains of the Inca Highway. And there are poems written to highlight the struggles of the hat-industry workers, who - without a union, and with few other options, had to work long hours for little reward, the prices for their wares determined on a piece-by-piece basis by the buyers' agents. Juan Cenca writes:

"Many times the straw, strong and slippery,
Cut his fingers like a twisting knife..."

Back on the road, our author copes with a hotel that, despite the decal on the door, won't take his Visa (and "triumphs" only in that he convinces them to remove the decal, since they refuse to accept the credit card). He samples cuy, roasted guinea pig, which - as given to him - sounds pretty awful, though I imagine a good cook could turn a nice fat guinea pig into a tasty dish. Not that I recommend eating house pets, but you know, when in Rome - er, Ecuador...

Interesting topic, and a book that definitely made me feel as if I were along for the journey!

I'm adding this to the Travel Narrative bookbox, which will be on its way to its next stop soon. Enjoy!

ooooh, looks like a good combo of a travel memoir and history of things book...but no room right now on Mt. TBR!

Received in the Travel Bookbox.

I have decided to release this back out for someone else to enjoy.

Releasing back into the travel bookbox. Please enjoy!

This book arrived home in my travel narrative bookbox. I have already read this book, so I plan on moving this one along again.

The time has come for this book to travel again. It has been far too lonely at my house sitting in a box waiting to go back out into the world.

Off in the mail to mrsjones to continue traveling. Had enough to send a box of books her way to enjoy, as I'm taking a break from hosting a bookbox for a bit. (My TBR shelf is way too big)

Received this in a box of books from thegoaliegirl. I look forward to reading and releasing it sometime soon!

I finally got around to reading this book since I was headed to Panama. It was an interesting history; dry in some parts, but I could visualize most of it. I’d never realized what an industry Panama hats are. Who knew? I wanted to leave this in the nice hat shop in Casio Viejo, but there were too many staff constantly straightening things up.

Left by the pool. Enjoy!